My top 5 Beauty stuff that makes me cringe

Okay so, here’s a list of things that make me cringe. I’ll go into the why I don’t personally use them but if you have used them please leave me a comment telling me why!

1. Harsh physical exfoliating scrubs

Okay, so you know how soft and smooth you feel after a scrub? You might actually be doing more harm than good depending on which kind of scrub you’re using! One very popular scrub is the Patron “Saint” of physical exfoliants (I’m not going to hint any further with the name but you know the one) – using ground up walnut shells that actually create tiny tears in the skin. Others use little plastic beads that go down your drain and end up in our oceans. Sloughing off a few dead skin cells shouldn’t be so rough as to be creating wounds and tiny tears in your face! When I had bad pimples as a teenager, I used this particular scrub to try to get rid of them, but they kept getting worse! I one day noticed that the less I did to my skin, the better it was, and until recently have strictly adhered to this!

What to try instead: Maybe look into chemical exfoliants – these have changed my whole perception on exfoliation! I love COSRX Blackhead Power Liquid. Or if you really like the feeling of scrubbing your face clean, try gently scrubbing with a sugar scrub while in a warm shower or a “gommage” type exfoliant!

2. Lemon juice

This one is all over Pinterest and makes me want to curl up into a ball and click “report for harmful content” every time. Lemon juice is much much too acidic to go onto your skin, never mind cutting one in half and scrubbing your face with one covered in coffee grains or sugar ugh no no stop. Adding baking soda or bicarbonate of soda to raise the PH doesn’t work unless you’re testing it accurately… even then. Unless you know what you’re doing, leave it to the pros.

What to try instead: If you want the brightening effects of Vitamin C all over your face OST C20 is a fairly inexpensive popular choice.  If you want a scrub, well we’ve covered that.

3. Vaseline

Ugh. I mentioned in my Clean it Zero review post that me and Vaseline do not see eye to eye. I understand that some people are happy using it as their occlusive layer and that’s them, but the thick viscous feel of it always makes me cringe.

What to try instead: Try amping up your hydration! If you’re hydrated to the max and love Vaseline as an occlusive then go for it! This one is totally a personal preference.

4. Peel off masks and “quick fix” crazes

Okay so, we’ve all been there. The newest craziest easiest beauty product just hit twitter/instagram/everywhere and you NEED that $463 (okay I just pulled a number out of my butt – like I feel some of these companies do) black peel off mask. OR did you know you can just make it out of things you have in your house for free? Ugh. I hate when things trend like this. Sure, sometimes they’re interesting, fun, or occasionally actually not terrible products (some people hate the Elizavecca Carbonated Clay mask – I like it!) but mostly the idea that you can throw some glue on your face and “instantly, magically” fix your skin (and the accompanied savvy businesspeople trying to sell you 30mL of glue for a ridiculous price because it’s trendy) really makes me kinda sad. Yes, for some people it may be a gateway to taking amazingly good care of their skin – unfortunately, most of these trends are one off – do nothing – wastes of money. That is, if they don’t damage your skin,

What to try instead: Ensure you have a base skincare routine you’re happy with. Try new products – but always take everything – especially anything labelled as “the hottest new skincare trend” or similar – with a grain of salt. Or maybe it’s just me that’s salty…

5. Nose strips

Okay, immediately relating to the above peel off masks, these can actually damage your skin. Those tiny little flecks that get pulled out of your nose/forehead/chin/eyelids aren’t actually blackheads – they’re sebaceous filaments,  and they’ll be back in a couple of days. Overuse of the nose-strip type ripping/pulling mask technique can lead to scarring of your pores, and I’m unfortunate proof of this. I had really bad blackheads so I was using the strips – as directed – twice a week. Then I notice one pore in my nose had gotten big. Like REALLY big. Like 4 of my other pores mashed together in a line. It’s been that way for 10 years now, and I’ve accepted my goof, but seriously, please don’t use peel type strips or masks!

What to try instead: GENTLE exfoliation. You can try chemical (it’s not as scary as it sounds, honest) or any of the techniques I mentioned above.

So weirdly, most of my cringe inducting skincare related junk is related to exfoliation. Just remember – a pimple is a wound. If you had a scratch on your arm would you be scrubbing sand onto it to make it “go away”?

Love, Selkie.

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Beauty talk!

Also known as, what the heck is she talking about?! As my beauty routine expands I’m finding new and interesting things all the damn time, so I’ll be adding some of them below as to a sort of “cheat sheet” to ingredients and terms I may use that might not make any sense to you… yet.

I’ll be periodically updating this post as I find new and interesting things that might need explaining!

If anything below needs more explaining, if you know of something interesting I should add or *gasp* if I’ve made an error, please comment and let me know!

Image source

 
Acids or actives – Scary sounding but (for me) life changing chemical exfoliants. Acids may reference alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), vitamin C and more! They are used for anti- acne, anti-aging, and brightening skin tone.

AHAs – Alpha hydroxy acids. In skincare these are usually formulated from fruit extracts (citric acid), sugar cane (glycolic acid) and milk (lactic acid) and are water permeable. They are used to “unglue” the top dead layer of skin, and are used for anti-acne and anti-aging

Arbutin – A chemical compound found in wheat, pear skins and bearberry plants. It inhibits the production of melanin and is used as a skin lightening ingredient.

Bee Venom – Pretty much what it sounds like – the stuff that moves through a bee’s stinger when it stings. I’ve read that in some cases it is extracted without killing the bees by having them walk on a very lightly electrified “mesh” that the venom passes through without damaging the bee or their stinger. Bee Venom is used in skincare for plumping, anti-aging and anti-acne, and is said to have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

BHAs – Beta hydroxy acids. In skincare this is most commonly salicylic acid, found in willow bark, and is oil soluble. These can penetrate deep into the pores the exfoliate, making them great for anti-acne and also for anti-aging.

Ceramides – The molecules in your skin that hold moisture and hold the cells together. Ceramides are used to replenish any that have been lost from dehydration or aging. They are used as anti-aging, and moisturising.

Double cleansing or oil cleansing – Using an oil based cleanser to first remove sunscreen, makeup and general gunk before using a second cleanser (these are your more “normal” foam cleansers).

Hanbang – Korean traditional herbal medicine. Relating to skincare this usually includes herbs and botanical extracts (and the occasionally potent earthy smells!). Ingredients that are considered Hanbang include the ever popular ginseng, mushrooms, lotus, camellia, bamboo, green tea as well as traditional processes such as fermentation.

Hyaluronic Acid – A molecule that retains moisture, naturally occurring in skin and cartilage. Improves wrinkles and skin elasticity and also helps skin retain hydration and moisture.

Hydration – Adding water – as opposed to moisturising which adds oils.

Fermentation – You know, like beer! But really, fermented ingredients in skin care are closer to the “good bacteria” you hear about in sauerkraut. Fermented ingredients can have anti-aging and skin brightening properties.

Grits – The small pieces of gunk that come out of your face when oil cleansing (I’ve had this happen ONCE. It was AWESOME.) These may be sebaceous filaments (SF) or even bits of fluff from towels or in those air that may look like they’ve come out of your face when they didn’t.

Lightening or Whitening: First and foremost, this is NOT about skin bleaching. While I’m naturally as pale as a ghost I do get hyperpigmentation spots after pimples, as well as the annoying red scarring. This is where the “lightening” products come into play for me – think of them more as “evening out” or “brightening” your skin tone rather than changing the shade. Generally while blogging I prefer the term bright over light or white.

Niacinamide – A form of vitamin B3 – it’s been very well studied and is efficient at evening out skin tone, adding “brightness” to skin and even reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Occlusive – A moisturiser that is used a final seal in your skincare routine. Anything from your bare-bones Vaseline to high end luxury creams that lock in moisture and hydration to keep all that goodness from escaping out of your skin all day or night long.

Peptides – Moisture binding agents (amino acids) that make up proteins – these may be used in skincare to reinforce naturally occurring proteins in the skin such as collagen, keratin and elastin. They can increase firmness, elasticity, smoothness and hydration.

PIE and/or PIH – Post Inflammatory Erythema or Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation. When you scar after a spot if it goes red or pink it’s usually PIE, and if it goes darker it’s usually PIH. Also, hyperpigmentation won’t react to pressure the way PIE will so if you want to test which you have, press a clear flat-bottomed shot glass (the bottom part against your skin) and see if it fades. If it does, it’s PIE, if not, it’s PIH. Unfortunately no actual pies involved.

Propolis – Bee glue! It’s a resin-like substance that bees use to seal off sections in honeycombs. It is said to be antibacterial and anti inflammatory and may also reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Snail mucin or snail secretion filtrate – Yep, this is exactly what it sounds like. It’s snail slime. Snail slime is amazing for healing  (think about if the bottom of your feet were softer than your tongue!) and plenty of other benefits.

Review: Elizavecca Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask 

Ok so first off, I’m obsessed with cute gimmicky skincare. It constantly pops in and out of my routine but very occasionally I’ll find one that I actually like.

Now that the furore for this product is starting to die down a little, I figured I’d throw my two cents in. I bought it because it was cute, fun, and has a happy little pig on the container. It also wasn’t overly expensive.


Photo via Elizavecca.com

I think almost everything that’s to be said about this product has been said 100 times over by now, but I wanted to share something that I found really surprising.

After doing the amazing pore shrinking routine as shown here by Fifty Shades of Snail as follows:

1. Starting with makeup free but unwashed skin ( I did it first thing in the morning) apply your BHA. I used COSRX Blackhead power liquid – about 4 pumps to really slather all over my skin.

2. Wait around 20 minutes or an episode of Forensic Files.

3. Apply your clay mask – in this case the Elizavecca Carbonated Clay Mask.

4. Follow the directions on the packaging. Don’t sneeze. Don’t itch. Don’t think about how itchy it is. Don’t scratch.

5. Rinse off clay mask with lukewarm water. Be absolutely amazed that your pores actually look less hideous. Be astounded that the blue-black hair dye stains all down the left side of your forehead and cheeks from where it dripped have vanished without a trace.

6. Apply your oil cleanser, I used the regular Banila Co. Clean it Zero.

7. WAIT. This is important. Watch two episodes of Forensic Files and then doze off…

8. Gently GENTLY massage your face. Hopefully you are now learning what grits are, and not in the American breakfast (is it breakfast?) context, but all those clogs and dirt that were in your face are now free.

9. Finish routine as per normal (although I skip any other acids on days I do this).
It worked guys, like holy wow. Clogs I didn’t even know were there were leaping out and it EVEN REMOVED PERMANENT BLACK HAIR DYE FROM MY SKIN. I can attest I’ve tried everything under the sun, harsh exfoliants, bi carb soda, acetone, everything. And nothing NOTHING removed stains like this. With no damage, no scrubbing, no scratching. I’m blown away.

I’ve since tried it with the Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay mask – which I think I preferred for my skin, but it’s less entertaining and didn’t remove hairdye stains nearly as well.

I will definitely be repurchasing the Elizavecca Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask again – if only for those pesky hair dye stains immediately before an important event!

Banila Co. Clean it Zero! A review and comparison of all four types.

When I first started my Asian beauty inspired routine I knew what my first step had to be, both literally and figuratively.

Oil cleanser! I live in Australia, I’m very pale, and I want to keep it that way so I wear a LOT of sunscreen. I read that it was the best way to remove makeup, sunscreen and general goo from your face so your “normal” cleanser can really get in and do what it’s supposed to do.

So I approached the idea with caution. This is because I dye my hair and sometimes use Vaseline to cover my skin to stop it from going blue-black but ugh. That feeling… It makes my skin crawl just thinking about it. It’s greasy, sticky, and personally, I’m not a fan. I can’t stand using it so I put up with dye stained ears for a few days rather than subject myself to the evil vat of petroleum sludge.

So first hearing about oil cleansing I got that same, crawling feeling in the pit of my stomach. I was going to wash my face… with oil? Ew. No thanks. Nope. No.

So I read up on it, I asked around on reddit, and someone suggested the Banila Co. Clean it Zero to start me off, as it’s a different texture, easy to find, not drippy and messy, and a bit easier for a creeped out newbie to handle. Sounds good!

I managed to snag a sample pack of each of the four kinds because I’m quite indecisive and even though I looked quite a bit I couldn’t find a comparison that suited the questions I had. (If you find or have written one please please link me!)

I’ve broken down my comparison as I have a couple of requirements, however my skin is pretty hardy and not at all sensitive and firmly balanced between oily and dry – yes I’m a mythical creature of no not combination really it’s normal skin type.


1. Smell
If I’m going to be slathering this stuff on my face daily, massaging and hopefully drawing out those stubborn grits out of my nose, it has to smell okay. It doesn’t have to be scented at all, but if it is, I want it to be nice. Not necessarily a deal breaker but it might help if I’m torn between two. Obviously the rating on this will totally depend on your taste. The scent on all four of these is quite subtle to my nose but if any of these sound gross to you, well, here’s your heads up.

Regular – sweet, lightly floral almost baby powder scent. A little cloying to me but that just because I jammed my nose in the pot. 3/5

Purity – one of the big draws for Purity is that it’s free from any added fragrances, but it does have a scent. It’s the lightest herby lavender smell, which considering it has lavender oil in it is unsurprising. 4/5

Reveratrol – very bright fruity scent, mostly green apple. This is my fave! 5/5

Radiance – soft, floral almost candy like scent. Kinda meh but not offensive. 3/5

2. Makeup & sunscreen removal

Now this is why I bought the four pack! I’ve tested them all quite a bit and found it to be a tie overall, but I did another small test so I could show you guys!


I slathered some makeup on my hand, two eyeliners, a liquid liner and a liquid lipstick as well as a slather of my indomitable mascara (review for that one coming soon!) as it’s easier to show makeup removal in picture format than sunscreen removal.


I tried really hard to put the same sized tiny blob of each cleanser onto each section of my hand. I rubbed them in a bit to get them breaking down the makeup, as you can see the liquid lipstick and eyeliners gave up immediately!


I ran some water over my hand and, still trying to keep each quarter seperate, emulsified them. You can’t see it here but all four went milky when mixed with water, this is when the liquid eyeliner gave in.


And rinsed off! As you can see that mascara doesn’t budge, unfortunately my hand isn’t a perfectly flat even surface for testing, but I can tell you that I was rubbing and working the hardest on the Radiance quarter.

So, after multiple face tests and the little experiment above I gave each one a score out of 10 for makeup removal.

Normal: 9/10

Purity: 8/10

Resveratrol: 9/10

Radiance: 7/10

3. Feel

Again, this is totally subjective but I wanted my oil cleanser to give me some slip, especially when I’m doing a facial massage.

Regular: Nice, creamy, soft. Emulsified well. Left minimal residue. 8/10

Purity: A bit more slippery when melted than the regular kind. Left no noticeable residue. 9/10

Resveratrol: Almost the same as the regular. Minimal residue. 8/10

Radiance: Same again, doesn’t feel different until rinsed off. Leaves a film behind that my regular cleanser removed. 6/10

4. Bonus round!

Purity gets a bonus point for being clean, simple and free from stuff that makes people not able to try the regular kind, sooo a point for being inclusive.

Regular gets a point for being the most readily available and usually the cheapest.

Final thoughts.

I really like all of the “flavours” of Banila Co Clean it Zero… except Radiance. I was so so excited to try it but it wasn’t the best at removing makeup, smells not so great and just left me feeling kinda meh.

I was also interested in the Resveratrol version as I keep seeing it advertised being for oily skin OR anti-aging. I didn’t notice any difference in oil production or skin texture during my tests but I may grab a full size soon to investigate further.

Down the track I may purchase a full size of the Radiance, just to see if I’m being too harsh but for now, I’m totally in love with the other three, but the smell of the Resveratrol version has my heart.

Love,

Selkie

How to take care of your skin (after rolling around in filth for 3 days)

Hi everyone! First off, I just want to clarify the title of this post. I’m a LARPer. 

Without going too deep into the process, what this means is a few times a year I go camping for 3 or more days (depending on the event I’m attending) in the dust and the muck all while being blasted by the Australian sun and “fight” other LARPers, with swords, or nerf guns, or whatever. While the wounds from swords and guns might not be real (aside from a couple of bruises) the dust, dirt, heat, sunscreen buildup, dehydration and other effects on my skin are very real.

Since starting my new skincare routine I noticed even more when I came home last Monday that I had really put my skin through a hard time. No showering, overloaded with sunscreen and only makeup wipes twice a day. Ew. My skin looked very dehydrated, and just kinda gross. I felt disgusting too. So here’s what I did to fix it:

Now you see why there aren’t many photos on this blog. Also, I forgot to photograph my Banila Co. Clean it Zero so just imagine it’s there…
Step 1: Easing back into my routine.

I have a lot of products that I use daily but for now I concentrated on GENTLE cleansing and lots and lots of hydration. When I was initially planning this post before the event I had images in my mind of doing a pore cleanse and having mountains of grits falling out of my face, but for a couple of reasons I didn’t do that. First, I was tired. I had slept about 3 hours each night since Thursday and wasn’t in the mood for a full routine. Looking at and feeling my skin I could tell it wanted care, not to be doused in acids and clay and sucked dry. So I kept it very very simple.

Step 2: Oil Cleansing

The first thing I did (even before taking off my dust caked shoes) was I slathered my face in almost half a sample size tub of Banila Co. Clean it Zero (the regular kind in the pink tub). I then pottered around the house, got undressed and unpacked my toothbrush, and checked my phone to make sure I hadn’t missed anything major while I’d been out of contact all weekend. I left the oil cleanser (and dust and everything) on my face for about 45 minutes. After this I did a very gentle facial massage, though it wasn’t too satisfying as I couldn’t tell grits from… well grit.

Step 3: SHOWER.

Oh bliss. It was only as I stepped into the shower that I could smell myself for the first time all weekend. Eurgh. I scrubbed and washed myself (and my hair) while leaving the oil on, leaving cleaning my face til last. I made sure to emulsify the oil very very gently, partly to ensure I wouldn’t harass my skin any further and partly because I was so damn tired I could barely move my arms. Then just before jumping out I cleansed with my gentle Sukin charcoal cleanser.

Step 4:  Hydration

Everything after this point was about making sure my face could spend all night drinking up products and be in a better state by morning. I skipped actives and went straight for a hydrating toner, some Holy Snails Shark Sauce, then Sukin night and eye creams. I then crawled into bed and passed out.

Step 5: Back to normal!

I took it kinda slow over the following week, sheet masking daily (Innisfree I’m Real Squeeze Rice masks were perfect for this week), only using my BHA on from Wednesday onwards and my AHA for the first time yesterday since last Monday when I got home. I’m going to re-introduce the Vitamin C Serum tomorrow. I’m currently writing this and one week after returning I believe my skin is actually in better shape than it was when I left.

I hope this was kind of informative to some! Hit me up if you have any tips or questions.

Love, 

Selkie

My current K-beauty inspired skincare routine

Okay let’s jump in!

These are the products I’m currently using at the moment, I’ll have these covered in reviews in future posts but if anyone wants a review of any of these please let me know.

Also, this is the list of products I use every day! I’ve left out some things like weekly clay masks and spot treatments. Also if you have any tips or questions, please comment!

MORNING:

Sukin Oil Balancing Plus Charcoal Purifying Gel Cleanser

OST Original Pure Vitamin C20 Serum

Nature Republic Bee Venom Toner

Mizon Snail Recovery Gel Cream

Biore UV Bright Face Milk SPF50+ PA++++

EVENING

Banila Co Clean It Zero (Original, but I’m currently testing all 4 types)

Sukin Oil Balancing Plus Charcoal Purifying Gel Cleanser

COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid

COSRX AHA Whitehead Power Liquid

Nature Republic Bee Venom Toner

Holy Snails Shark Sauce Du Mois – Alpha Shark

Sheet mask – I have so so many, I just choose whatever scent I’m craving or what I feel my skin needs each day

Sukin Antioxidant Eye Serum

Sukin Purely Ageless Replenishing Night Cream

Holy Snails El Dorado

That’s what I do every day! I skipped over my weekly products and a few others that I’m either slowly introducing to my routine or don’t use every day.

So that’s it!

Love,

Selkie

Welcome

To my first ever post!

There will be reviews, things I’ve learned and a whole bunch of skincare and beauty related stuff.

In this blog I’ll be documenting my foray into an Asian Beauty style 10(ish) step routine, with products from all over the world, with an emphasis on understanding the WHY things work and what each product does to my skin.

I’m 29, I live in Melbourne Australia, I’m very pale and have normal/dehydrated skin. My main skin concerns are PIH and PIE (hyperpigmentation and redness after the occasional spot respectively) and the ever worrying *shudder* aging!

I don’t know if I have any skin sensitivities, but this blog will be a way for me to journey through a bunch of different products and routines and figure out what works and what doesn’t work for me.

Because I’m looking for that ethereal glow, and I’ll try everything I can to get it.

Love,

Selkie